The Sóller Railway: Mallorca’s most iconic railway
For over 100 years, one of Mallorca’s most beloved symbols—the Sóller Railway—has been running through mountains, tunnels and orange groves. Long before it became a tourist attraction, this railway was essential for connecting the Sóller valley with Palma and facilitating the transport of people and goods.
Historical background
The Industrial Revolution emerged in Europe and brought many changes, one of the most fundamental being the railway. England was the pioneer, and it was in 1825 that the world’s first train was inaugurated. It arrived in Spain later (1848) and took a little longer to reach Mallorca, but finally, in 1875, we had our train from Palma to Inca. By 1900, we already had 126.75 kilometres of railway track, which is quite a lot considering the size of the island.
The historical isolation of the Sóller Valley
Sóller is a beautiful place, nestled in the Serra de Tramuntana mountains and in a valley surrounded by orange groves. It is barely 30 km from Palma as the crow flies.
But it was precisely the mountains and the orange groves that shaped its recent history. In the past, the land connection to Palma was very difficult, as it was made by a horse-drawn ‘stagecoach’, similar to those of the American West.
However, thanks to its magnificent harbour, sea connections were excellent, and this greatly benefited the orange trade, with oranges being exported in large quantities to the south of France. Sóller opened up to the world and prospered.
An era of development, modernity and new ideas
The early 20th century saw a boom in technical advances: the car, the telephone, the train, and even the aeroplane.
Against this general backdrop, Sóller also enjoyed a high standard of living, not only due to trade with France but also because of the return of wealthy individuals from the former colonies (Cuba, Puerto Rico and the Philippines). Sóller was eager for modernity, and boasted progressive elites and even its own bank, the Banco de Sóller.
So in 1905, the “Sociedad Ferrocarril Palma–Sóller SA” was established, with 150 founding shareholders.
The tunnel and the engineering of the time
Once all the bureaucratic and legal issues had been resolved, work began in June 1907. The route would have four stations: Sóller, Bunyola, Son Sardina and Palma. But the most challenging part would be the tunnels through the mountains—five in total, the longest of which was almost 3 kilometres long—a real challenge for the time.
Work began with around 400 labourers, most of whom came from the mainland, particularly from Aragon, Catalonia and Valencia, and were paid a daily wage of approximately 6 pesetas, though they were paid per metre of tunnel excavated.
The train sets off!
After several years of construction complications, workers’ strikes and other setbacks, the train finally made its maiden journey on 7 October 1911. Following all the tests and adjustments, it began regular service from April 1912.
But the grand official opening ceremony took place on 16 April, on a beautiful spring’s day. At 3.00 pm, the convoy of two steam engines and five carriages, packed with guests, set off from Palma. After a spectacular journey, it arrived in Sóller at 5.00 pm, where three bands, magnificent decorations of flowers and oranges, the authorities and a huge crowd were waiting. It is an exciting day, a turning point for Sóller; the train has broken the isolation.
1929, a pivotal year
After several years of running on coal and a steam boiler, the Sóller train took a huge leap forward and switched to electricity, using 1200-volt direct current. More modern, cleaner, more efficient and quieter.
And so it remains to this day, a charming train with wooden carriages and a wooden locomotive, with the flavour of the 1920s.
The Sóller Railway, today
Head to Plaza de España in Palma and you’ll see a large train and bus station, the intermodal station. But no, the one we’re interested in is a tiny, old and charming station: the station for our wooden train that will take us to Sóller.
We buy a ticket and climb into one of the carriages, but you have to be quick—it’s best to grab a seat by the window. The views are well worth it.
The whistle blows and the train sets off; it’s a journey back in time. It feels as though we’re in 1929. Little by little, it makes its way through the traffic, right in the heart of the city that has developed over the years.
The landscape of the Serra de Tramuntana
We can hear the rattle; we’re already leaving the city behind and the views are opening up, with a gentle breeze blowing in through the old windows. We’ll soon reach Son Sardina, and later Bunyola. But the most spectacular part comes when we reach the mountainous area, the Serra de Tramuntana, with its tunnels and, as we emerge from them, some breathtaking views. As we approach the Sóller valley, the sight of the little stone houses, the orange trees and, above all, the scent of orange blossom fill our senses…
We gaze at the landscape and don’t want the journey to end, but little by little the train descends and in about an hour we’ll have reached our destination. There’s plenty to see in Sóller, so both the train ride and a short stroll are well worth it.
Final thoughts: finally well connected!
Today we might see this train as a tourist attraction, but if we transport ourselves back to 1911, we’ll realise that this was a true story of transformation and modernisation for Sóller. From then on, Sóller was finally able to be well connected to the island’s capital, Palma.
For decades, the Sóller Railway helped transport oranges and other Mallorcan produce from the Serra to Palma. Today, that local tradition lives on in many products made on the island.
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